Wednesday, August 31, 2011

rain coat and Isabel's jacket

Finally camera and computer are speaking again. 

Isabel's jacket is McCalls 5921.  I added the front button tabs and the back belt.  The yokes were on bias one layer.  I added a back layer cut on grain for stability.  The black and white zebra print is cotton pique from Hancock's selected by the designer (Isabel) and the trim is cotton sateen from Mary Jo's.  Also selected by the designer (Isabel).

The raincoat is laminated linen from Linda Lee at Sewing Workshop.  The pattern is Vogue Sandra Betzina 1097.  I auditioned 3 patterns before selecting this one.  I wanted to use a trench coat pattern but when I started to work with the pattern I realized that a sleeve would not ease into the armscye.  This pattern has a raglan sleeve with no ease.  I tested every step before use.  I tested the fusible interfacing and the melting of the glue process permanently discolored the fabric.  I used rayon twill tape to stabilize the front and neck edges since the fabric was very stiff anyway.   The laminate softens while you are working with it so you have to feed it carefully and sew slowly.  In order to get the seams to lay acceptably flat they were stitched, pressed flat with a cool iron on silk setting, finger pressed open and then edge stitched and top stitched in a faux flat feld.  The sewing was not difficult but somewhat arduous.  The finished garment is heavy and very warm so I am looking forward to a cold and rainy day to wear it.