Sunday, July 8, 2012
Supplies needed: 24 inch by 30 yards architects “trash” paper, several very sharp number 2 pencils, plastic see through dressmaker curve (available from Peggy Sagers ot Dritz), 18” or 24” flexible ruler, L-square or T-square, hip rule is not imperative but very useful, enough “muslin” yardage to make your garment twice. (Muslin is for class 101). Large 3 ring binder for notes and records of each garment. The goal is that you will have several completed garments that fit. Most importantly, that you will acquire the knowledge, information and confidence to analyze patterns and use your own master patterns to achieve perfect fit and/or add the details to your own master patterns.
PART 2 MORE (advanced) DESIGN Part 3.5 Copying details Part 3.6 Adding details Part 3.8 Moving darts Part 3.9 The elements of your personal preference Part 3.10 Adding construction details
PART I ELEMENTS OF DESIGN Part 3.1 Design analysis and comparing patterns Part 3.2 Incorporating design details Part 3.3 Necklines Part 3..4 Fronts
Developing master patterns or slopers from your fitted top or blouse. Part 2.1: Tweaking and making pattern changes. Making and using templates. Part 2.2: Developing other master patterns from the fitted final pattern above. Part 2.3 Developing and adjusting the sleeves: Part 2.4 Developing basic patterns to your personal preference.
Pattern Fitting and Tweaking Program for tops and blouses Use your tried and true pattern or start with a new basic pattern* Lesson 1: Complete and accurate measurements. Pattern analysis and comparing your measurements to pattern measurements Lesson 2: Pattern revisions for your body. Lesson 3: Finish sewing muslin garment, noting any fitting tweak. Note: Prior to beginning this I strongly recommend that you invest in a well fitting bra. Anne St Claire at Needle Nook Fabrics has info on what makes a well fitting bra in her book Intimately Yours, Bras That Fit. Her contact is firstname.lastname@example.org. You could also have a commercial bra professionally fitted. *Contact instructor regarding pattern selection.
The Developing Master Patterns class has been working hard on preparations. We have been fitting. We have found good success with Connie Crawford's new bust dart blouse fitting pattern (available from her website: fashionpatterns.com). It has been formulated on a more realistic view of the human body than the "B-Cup Barbie-esque" view of some other patterns. Fitting is a process that has to be worked through. It starts at the top and then when one change is made it can require other changes as well. If you are doing your own sloper without a helper be sure to cut, mark and stitch accurately. Be sure to stay stitch following the grainline around the curved edges that you do not want to ease. A tip from Cynthia Guffey is to staystitch 1/16th inside the seam allowance and trim to this line for the neck edge and the sleeve if you are making a sleeveless sloper. I recommend that you not make a sleeveless sloper as you will miss the fitting of the sleeve which can completely change the fit and mobility of a garment. We are not statues so even with impeccable fit we still must most likely drive a car or pick up a child. I also recommend that your sloper have a jewel neckline so that you can get a good fit on the upper back. The jewel neck sloper can be used for collared shirts and blouses as well as any jacket that has lapels.