Sewing from a custom fitted sloper. Fitting is a challenge and unless you are the exact replica of the Wolf dress form you will need to fit every pattern. Fit once, use the sloper and learn a few design rules and let your creativity reign.
Sunday, July 8, 2012
Working hard on fitting
The Developing Master Patterns class has been working hard on preparations. We have been fitting. We have found good success with Connie Crawford's new bust dart blouse fitting pattern (available from her website: fashionpatterns.com). It has been formulated on a more realistic view of the human body than the "B-Cup Barbie-esque" view of some other patterns. Fitting is a process that has to be worked through. It starts at the top and then when one change is made it can require other changes as well. If you are doing your own sloper without a helper be sure to cut, mark and stitch accurately. Be sure to stay stitch following the grainline around the curved edges that you do not want to ease. A tip from Cynthia Guffey is to staystitch 1/16th inside the seam allowance and trim to this line for the neck edge and the sleeve if you are making a sleeveless sloper. I recommend that you not make a sleeveless sloper as you will miss the fitting of the sleeve which can completely change the fit and mobility of a garment. We are not statues so even with impeccable fit we still must most likely drive a car or pick up a child. I also recommend that your sloper have a jewel neckline so that you can get a good fit on the upper back. The jewel neck sloper can be used for collared shirts and blouses as well as any jacket that has lapels.
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