Thursday, August 16, 2012

ruched side front on shoulder seam princess dress

In our Master Pattern class yesterday Geannene had a pattern for a dress with a ruched side front. My recommendation is that Geannene use her side front and slash and spread to achieve the same result. I have used the half scale bodice and cut it to make it a shoulder seam princess line. I made several cuts to but not through the side seam and pulled the inside seam line apart to form a curve. This is how the ruched side front pattern was made. I have attached a scan of the piece that I made. Geannene, I recommend that you do this rather than trying to fit the other pattern. The more cuts that you make and spread the more curve you will get and the more ruching you will have. The general principal for gathers, ruffles and ruching is a ratio of 1 1/2 to 1. In other words if the part of your pattern that you want to ruch is 6 inches you may want to start with the circumference of the curved part at 9 inches. You can check the pattern that you brought today and measure the front piece where the ruching is eased into on the front and measure the ruching circle. This will give you the ratio that the pattern company used. I would then use this ratio on your top as well. You all are the designers now and can make details or add details..I am impressed with the work that you all have done and the progress that you have made. I will look at my several pattern drafting books to recommend some that show how to draft details like collars, ruching, necklines, yokes, etc. Connie Crawfords book is good and so is Helen Joseph Armstrong. There are several less technical books on the market to and I will look through my collection to see which I have and you can take a look at them.

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